Far quieter than Valdez, and only accessible by sea or air, CORDOVA is an unpretentious fishing community set in forests and mountains on the southeastern edge of the Sound. In 1906, the Irish engineer Michael J. Heney chose Cordova as the port from which to ship the copper mined in Kennicott, a hundred miles northeast, and gambled on cutting a path between two active glaciers for his proposed Copper River and Northwestern Railroad - the CR&NW - ridiculed at the time as the "Can't Run & Never Will." Nonetheless, in 1911 he spanned the Copper River with the elaborate " Million Dollar Bridge " and the railroad was completed. Despite the effort, the mines were exhausted just 27 years later and Cordova shifted its depen-dency to fishing, which itself was dealt a potentially fatal blow in 1989 with the grounding of the Exxon Valdez . For the next two seasons, the community reeled from the effects of the oil spill ; since then fortunes have improved.

Today the "Million Dollar Bridge," heavily battered by the 1964 earthquake, cuts a lonely figure at the end of the Copper River Highway, a 48-mile gravel road that traverses the wondrous wetlands of the Copper River Delta , a major breeding ground for America's migratory birds backed by the Chugach Mountains. It is a tranquil spot for fishing, bird-watching or hiking along many of the excellent trails, such as the difficult trek up to Crater Lake. The road ends right next to the bridge and beside the incredibly active Childs Glacier .

By far the best way to experience the bridge is in your own vehicle rented (for around $75 a day, unlimited mileage) from either the Reluctant Fisherman Inn (tel 907/424-3272) in town or Cordova Auto Rentals (tel 907/424-5982) at the airport. Alternatively, Copper River/Northwest Tours (tel 907/424-5356) runs a six-hour tour to the bridge for $45 including lunch.

Cordova itself has few sights; the small-boat harbor is the core of the town's activity, particularly when the fleet is in, from May until September. The Cordova Historical Museum on First Street and Adams Avenue (summer Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 2-4pm; rest of year Tues-Fri 1-5pm, Sat 2-4pm; $1 donation) has quirky exhibits on local history, including the evolution of the little ice worm that lives in the glaciers, and the funky annual festival that celebrates its existence.

Cordova

• Cordova
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