The greenery and mountain slopes that make up vast
Griffith Park
northeast of Hollywood (daily 5am-10.30pm, mountain roads close at dusk; free) are a welcome escape from the mind-numbing hubbub of the metropolis, providing lush fern and azalea gardens, a bird sanctuary, a Greek Theatre showing outdoor concerts, and many miles of fine trails. The landmark
Observatory
(Closed for renovation until 2005;
) here has appeared in innumerable Hollywood films, most famously
Rebel Without a Cause
, and the surrounding acres add up to the largest municipal park in the country. Above the landscaped flat sections, the hillsides are rough and wild, marked by foot and bridle paths, leading into deso-late but appealingly unspoiled terrain that gives great views over the LA basin and out to the ocean, provided the city smog isn't too thick. One way to explore is on a
rented bike
from
Spokes 'n' Stuff
, near the park ranger station, at 4400 Crystal Springs Rd (daily during daylight hours; tel 323/662-6573). Definitely worth a look is the
Gene Autry Museum of Western Heritage
, 4700 Western Heritage Way, devoted to true Wild West history and its Hollywood interpretation (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm, Thurs closes at 8pm; $7.50;
). The park is safe by day, but has a fearsome reputation for after-dark violence.
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