In a city with an abundance of green space, Golden Gate Park stands out as not just the largest, but also the most beautiful, and safest, of its parks. Spreading three miles or so west from the Haight as far as the Pacific, it was constructed on what was then an area of wild sand dunes, buffeted by the spray from the ocean. Despite the throngs of joggers, polo players, roller-skaters, cyclists and strollers, it never seems to get overcrowded and you can always find a spot to be alone.

Of the park's several museums, two are under construction at the time of writing. The M.H. de Young Museum , with its large and diverse range of painting and sculpture, is in the midst of a massive rehaul and not due to reopen until 2005. The similarly under-construction Asian Art Museum is moving locations entirely, within the old Main Library space, next to the new Main Library in the Civic Center district. It is considered one of the largest and most impressive museums devoted only to Asian art in the Western Hemisphere. (You can check on the status of its development at ) The California Academy of Sciences ($8.50, $2.50 discount with Muni transfer, free first Wed of month; summer daily 9am-6pm; rest of year daily 10am-5pm; ) opposite is a good place to amuse restless children, with its 30ft dinosaur skeleton, life-size replicas of elephant seals and other California wildlife, and live colony of black-footed penguins. Over 6,000 specimens of aquatic life can be viewed in its Steinhart Aquarium (admission included in museum ticket; daily 10am-5pm), the best are the alligators and other reptiles lurking in a simulated swamp. Sky shows in its Morrison Planetarium cost $2.50 more. Slightly to the west is the Japanese Tea Garden ($3.50; daily 9am-6.30pm), dominated by a massive bronze Buddha. Bridges, footpaths, pools filled with carp, bonsai and cherry trees lend a peaceful feel. Busloads of tourists pour in; by far the best idea is to get here early for a breakfast of tea and fortune cookies in the tea house ($3.50 anytime).

The beautiful National AIDS Memorial Grove is in the eastern end of the park, near the tennis courts. Inaugurated in 1991, it is a pleasant and thought-provoking place to stroll. Tours take place Thursdays from 9.30am to 12.30pm (tel 415/750-8340, ).

Golden Gate Park

• Golden Gate Park

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