Los Angeles: Specialist tours

Black LA Tours tel 323/750-9267. Black historical and entertainment tours of once-famed Central Avenue and key African-American history museums and cultural attractions.

The California Native 6701 W 87th Place (tel 310/642-1140 or 1-800/926-1140, ). Go sea-kayaking, tour the uninhabited islands off the coast of California. Adventure tours $195 and up.

Googie Tours (tel 323/980-3480). Groovy treks to space-age glass and formica diners, quirky cocktail lounges and classic fast-food joints, as well as touring tributes to LA's primo pop architecture.

Haunted Hearse Tours PO Box 461145, Hollywood (tel 323/782-9652). Better have a strong taste for the morbid to spend two and a half hours in the back of a Cadillac hearse, tracking down the location of every eventful death, scandal, perverted sex act and drug orgy ever to have tainted Hollywood.

Neon Cruises 501 W Olympic Blvd, downtown (tel 213/489-9918, ). Three-hour-long, eye-popping evening tours of LA's best remaining neon art, once a month on Saturdays, sponsored by the Museum of Neon Art.

SPARC tours: the Murals of LA 685 Venice Blvd, Venice (tel 310/822-9560, ). Expert tours through the "mural capital of the world." Pointing out remarkable neighborhood landmarks all over the city - community art in a cultural context.

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