Los Angeles: Hollywood

Casa Carnitas 4067 Beverly Blvd tel 323/667-9953. Tasty, cheap Mexican food from the Yucatan, with dishes inspired by Cuban and Caribbean cooking; lots of seafood, too.

Citrus 6703 Melrose Ave tel 323/857-0034. Trendy, upmarket restaurant, serving good California cuisine using fish, duck, and rack of lamb. Reservations are essential; lunch for two will be at least $65.

French Quarter 7985 Santa Monica Blvd tel 323/654-0898. Inside the French Market Place, a gay-run, New Orleans-themed Cajun restaurant that's at least as much fun as Disneyland.

Gloria's Café 3603 W Sunset Blvd tel 323/664-5732. Popular, gay-friendly local hangout that's great for dinner, especially Cajun food.

Hampton's 1342 N Highland Ave tel 323/469-1090. Over fifty styles of gourmet hamburger on the menu.

Mexico City 2121 Hillhurst Ave tel 323/661-7227. Spinach enchiladas and other Californian versions of Mexican standards served in red booths, with a great view of the street from the wall-length window and a young crowd. You're allowed to smoke in the adjoining bar, a rarity in LA.

Musso and Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd tel 323/467-7788. Since 1919, all the Hollywood bigwigs have frequented this landmark restaurant - but at $15 for bacon and eggs, you're better off having a cocktail in the bar.

Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles 1514 N Gower St tel 323/466-7453. Mind-blowingly caloric delights at this always-packed spot, highlighted by hefty helpings of the eponymous comfort food.

Shibucho 3114 Beverly Blvd tel 323/387-8498. Excellent sushi bar in the heart of Little Tokyo; go with someone who knows what to order, as the waiters don't speak English.

Tommy's 2575 Beverly Blvd tel 310/389-9060. Often called LA's best burgers: loaded with thick beef, toppings and, most importantly, grease. But watch the dicey neighborhood.

Yukon Mining Co 7328 Santa Monica Blvd tel 323/851-8833. Colorful coffee shop catering to local drag queens, Russian immigrants, and residents of the neighboring senior citizens' home. Open 24hr.

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