From the east peak of Mount Tamalpais, a quick two-mile downhill hike follows the Temelpa Trail through velvety shrubs of chaparral to the town of MILL VALLEY , the oldest and most enticing of the inland towns of Marin County. This was originally a logging center, from where the destruction of the surrounding redwoods was organized, but for many years the town has made a healthy living out of tourism and October's annual Mill Valley Film Festival, which draws area stars and up-and-coming directors alike.

The restored town centers today around the redwood-shaded square of the Depot Bookstore and Café (Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat & Sun 8am-9pm; tel 415/383-2665), a popular bookstore, café and meeting place at 87 Throckmorton Ave; there's a small visitor center in the same building (Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri 10am-noon and 1-4pm; tel 415/388-9700). Far and away the best place to stay , if you can afford it, is the Mill Valley Inn , 165 Throckmorton Ave (tel 415/389-6608 or 1-800/595-2100, ; $160-250+), a gorgeous European-style inn with elegant rooms and two private cottages. They've also opened a branch along the waterfront: sumptuous Acqua Hotel , 555 Redwood Hwy (tel 415/380-0400 or 1-888/662-9555, ; $160-200/$200-250), on Richardson Bay. Piazza D'Angelo , at 22 Miller Ave (tel 415/388-2000), has very good pizzas and pastas. Sunnyside Café , 31 Sunnyside Ave (tel 415/388-5260), claims "the customers are rarely right" but serves large, affordable breakfasts and lunches nonetheless. Sweetwater , at 153 Throckmorton Ave (tel 415/388-2820, ), is a comfortable saloon which doubles as Marin's prime live music venue, with gigs ranging from jazz and blues all-stars to Jefferson Airplane survivors.

Mill Valley

• Mill Valley

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