Roughly sixty miles north of Redding, a scenic road branches off I-5 to the tiny town that describes itself as "the best kept secret in California": MOUNT SHASTA CITY , hard under the enormous bulk of the 14,162ft Mount Shasta . Still considered active despite not having erupted for two hundred years, this lone peak dominates the landscape for a hundred miles around, and its "energies" attract New Agers by the score. If you want to climb to the summit (10hr; crampons and ice axe needed most of the year), or simply to explore the flanks of the mountain along the many trails, you must obtain a free permit from the ranger district office , 204 W Alma St (April-Oct Mon-Sat 8am-4.30pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm; tel 530/926-4511), or you can self-issue one at the main trailheads.

Greyhound buses on the Redding-Oregon run stop on N Mount Shasta Boulevard, a couple of blocks from the Chamber of Commerce , 300 Pine St (summer daily 9am-5pm, in winter daily 10am-4pm; tel 530/926-4865 or 1-800/397-1519, ). There's budget accommodation at the excellent Alpenrose Cottage Guest House , 204 E Hinkley St (tel 530/926-6724, ; up to $75), and the Best Western Tree House Motor Inn , 111 Morgan Way (tel 1-800/545-7164 or 530/926-3101; $75-100/$100-130). Nicer still, the McCloud Hotel Bed & Breakfast , 408 Main St, McCloud (tel 1-800/964-2823 or 530/964-2822), has rooms with Jacuzzis ($130-160/$160-200) and without ($75-100/$100-130). Lake Siskiyou Campground (tel 530/926-2618) is four miles west of town.

Some of the town's best food can be found at Lily's , 1013 S Mount Shasta Blvd (tel 530/926-3372), which serves Mexican fare, prime rib and, surprisingly, a wide range of vegetarian dishes, and big Sunday brunches. For Italian and cocktails, head for Mike and Tony's , 501 S Mount Shasta Blvd (tel 530/926-4792). Breakfast, or bagels anytime, can be found at the New Agey Bagel Café and Bakery , 315 N Mount Shasta Blvd (tel 530/926-1414).

Mount Shasta City

• Mount Shasta City

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