South of the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the people of Rock Harbor recognized a good thing when they saw one and changed the name of their community to KEY LARGO after the success of the 1948 film in which Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall grappled with Florida's best-known features - crime and hurricanes. The movie's title suggested somewhere exotic, but the film, though set here, was almost entirely shot in Hollywood. Nonetheless, Key Largo, and its neighbor TAVERNIER , ten miles further on, make nice enough stops on the Upper Keys. You can almost feel urban stresses and strains slip away as you take in the turquoise sea and waving palms.

The Florida Keys visitor center , MM106 (daily 9am-6pm; tel 305/451-9949 or 1-800/822-1088, ), has information on local accommodation, diving and attractions. Most motels offer diving packages: try Ed & Ellen's Efficiencies , 103365 Overseas Hwy (tel 305/451-4712; $50-75), which has a two-night minimum; the beach cottages at the Sea Farer Hotel , MM97.8 (tel 305/852-5349; $50-75); or the Kona Kai Resort , MM97.8 (tel 305/852-7200; $100-130), with huge chalets and its own hotel art gallery. For fresh seafood , try Ballyhoo's , MM97.8 opposite the Sea Farer (tel 305/852-0822), the Fish House , MM102.4 (tel 305/451-4665), and the tiny Crack'd Conch , MM105 (tel 305/451-0732).

Key Largo town and Tavernier

• Key Largo town and Tavernier

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