Tybee Island , eighteen miles east of the city on US-80, is served by three daily C&H buses (tel 912/232-7099) from the Civic Center in Savannah. Here you'll find Savannah's best - and not too overdeveloped - beach , as well as a 154ft lighthouse, at 30 Meddin Drive, dating from 1736, and a small museum housed in a nearby gun battery (summer daily except Tues 9am-5.30pm; rest of year Mon & Wed-Fri noon-4pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; $4). To get there take a left turn just before the beach. Abundant accommodation options include the DeSoto Beach Hotel , 212 Butler Ave (tel 912/786-4542, fax 912/786-4543, ; $100-130), yet another sight from "The Book." For great Low Country food , head for The Crab Shack , at 40 Estill Hammock Rd, Chimney Creek (tel 912/786-9857), where you can dine on delicious crabs and shrimp in an old shack by the creek - worth a visit if you can find it. Take a right turn off the main road to the beach, about two miles before you reach the lighthouse turnoff. Spanky's Beachside at 1605 Strand Ave (tel 912/786-5520) has live music at weekends.

FORT PULASKI NATIONAL MONUMENT , off US-80 E en route to Tybee Island, is the most interesting of several local forts (daily 8.30am-6.45pm; $2). An impressive Confederate stronghold, set on its own idyllic if rather buggy little island and ringed by a moat inhabited by the occasional alligator, it was nevertheless taken by Union troops, the first masonry fortress to be pierced by rifled cannon fire.

Ten miles south of Savannah at 7601 Skidaway Rd, Wormsloe State Historic Site (Tues-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 2-5.30pm; $3; tel 912/353-3023) is the site of an eighteenth-century defensive plantation. The atmospheric tabby ruins of the fortified house of British settler Noble Jones are now overgrown with palms and lush forest. Inside the house, a museum covers the early settlement of Savannah, with archeological finds and demonstrations of the skills and crafts of the first settlers. Much of the Georgia coast is taken up by a string of National Wildlife Refuges , on the small marshy islands that make up the barrier island chain . It's well worth detouring or backtracking along the quiet side roads to cross to Blackbeard Island, Wolf Island, Pinckney or Wassaw , where tranquil swamps are filled with nesting birds and offer great fishing.

Out from Savannah

• Out from Savannah

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