Most of ST SIMON'S ISLAND , reached across a green marsh inhabited by wading birds (35¢ toll), is still an evocative landscape of marshes, palms and live oaks covered with Spanish moss. The tiny village is pleasantly quiet, little more than a handful of T-shirt shops and cafés, with a small coastal museum, St Simon's Island Museum (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1.30-5pm; $4; tel 912/638-4666), concentrating on local events. You can rent kayaks at Southeast Adventures (tel 912/638-6732), which also runs bird- and dolphin-watching tours. The beach by the village is not safe for swimming due to fierce currents, but the sand is nice and firm for strolling. The best swimming is on the east side of the island, where the flat, fine sand stretches out for miles. FORT FREDERICA NATIONAL MONUMENT , seven miles north of the causeway (summer daily 8am-5pm; $5; tel 912/638-3639), was built in 1736 by General Oglethorpe as the largest British fort in North America; it's now an atmospheric ruin.

As well as a number of resorts , the nicest of which is Sea Palm s, 5445 Frederica Rd (tel 912/638-3351 or 1-800/841-6268, fax 912/634-8029, ; $75-100), with atmospheric rooms overlooking the marshes, accommodation options include Saint Simon's Inn , 609 Beachview Drive (tel 912/638-1101, fax 912/638-0943, ; $50-75), just a block from the beach near the village. By far the best place to eat on the island is Frannie's Place Restaurant , 318 Mallery St, famed for its exceptional Brunswick stew; try also the specialty sandwiches, crabcakes and to-die-for desserts. At the Sea Island Festival in late August, you can hear traditional music and see folk crafts being made (tel 912/638-9014).

To the south, CUMBERLAND ISLAND is a stunning wildlife refuge of marshes, beaches and semitropical forest roamed by wild horses, with the odd deserted planter's mansion. You can get there by ferry from the village of St Mary's, to the south near the Florida border (summer daily trips out at 9am & 11.45am, back at 10.15am, 2.45pm & 4.45pm; rest of year Thurs-Mon, trips out at 9am & 11.45am, back at 10.15am & 4.45pm; 45min; $16).

St Simon's Island and Cumberland Island

• St Simon's Island and Cumberland Island

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