USA: Camping and backpacking

The ideal way to see the great outdoors - especially if you're on a low budget - is to tour by car, and camp at night in state and federal campgrounds, which tend to be far more peaceful and scenic than their commercially run equivalents. Typical public campgrounds range in price from free (usually when there's no water available, which may be seasonal) to around $8 per night. Fees at the commercial campgrounds abundant near major towns - many of which resemble open-air hotels, complete with shops and restaurants - are more like $15-20. There may be plenty of campgrounds, but there are also plenty of people who want to use them: if you're camping in high season, either reserve in advance or avoid the most popular areas.

Backcountry camping in the national parks is usually free, by permit only. Before you set off on anything more than a half-day hike, and whenever you're headed for anywhere at all isolated, be sure to inform a ranger of your plans, and ask about weather conditions and specific local tips. Carry sufficient food and drink to cover emergencies, as well as all the necessary equipment and maps. Check that fires are permitted before you start one; even if they are, try to use a camp stove in preference to local materials - in some places firewood is scarce, although you may be allowed to use deadwood. In wilderness areas, try to camp on previously used sites. Where there are no toilets, bury human waste at least six inches into the ground and a hundred feet from the nearest water supply and campground. Burn what trash you can, and take the rest away.

Backpackers should never drink from rivers and streams, however clear and inviting they may look; you never know what acts people - or animals - have performed further upstream. Giardia - a water-borne bacteria that causes an intestinal disease, characterized by chronic diarrhea, abdominal cramps, fatigue and weight loss - is a serious problem. Water that doesn't come from a tap should be boiled for at least five minutes, or cleansed with an iodine-based purifier (such as Portable Aqua) or a Giardia-rated filter, available from any camping or sports store.

Hiking at lower elevations should present few problems, though the swarms of mosquitoes that you may encounter near water can drive you crazy; Avon Skin-so-soft hand cream or anything containing DEET are fairly reliable repellents. Ticks - tiny beetles that plunge their heads into your skin and swell up - are another hazard. They sometimes leave their heads inside, causing blood clots or infections, so get advice from a park ranger if you've been bitten. One species of tick causes Lyme Disease , a serious condition that can even affect the brain. Nightly inspections of your skin are strongly recommended.

Beware, too, of poison oak , an allergenic shrub that grows all over the western states, usually among oak trees. Its leaves come in groups of three (the middle one on a short stem) and are distinguished by prominent veins and shiny surfaces. If you come into contact with it, wash your skin (with soap and cold water) and clothes as soon as possible - and don't scratch. In serious cases, hospital emergency rooms can give antihistamine or adrenaline jabs. A comparable curse is poison ivy , similar in appearance, found throughout the country. Remember the sage advice, "Leaves of three, let it be."

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