The surfing beaches of northern Oahu are famous the world over, but they're barely equipped for tourists. Waimea, Sunset and Ehukai beach parks (the latter is home of the Banzai Pipeline, the most famous surfing spot in the world) are all laid-back roadside stretches of sand, where you can usually find a quiet spot to yourself. Sunset is best for savoring the atmosphere, though surfers can be an exclusive bunch. The tame summer waves may make you wonder what all the fuss is about; if you see them at full tilt in the winter, you'll have no doubts.

HALEIWA is the main surfers' hangout, combining alternative shops and cafés with upfront tourist traps. Most of the food around is vegetarian; at the back of the Celestial Natural Foods store, 66-443 Kamehameha Hwy, the Paradise Found Café (tel 808/637-4640) serves breakfast and lunch for about $6 a time, while Cholo's Homestyle Mexican , in the North Shore Marketplace across the street (tel 808/637-3059), is a busy, plain but very lively Mexican joint.

For accommodation , you'll have to head five miles northeast to the Backpacker's Vacation Inn , at 59-788 Kamehameha Hwy by Waimea Bay (tel 808/638-7838, ; up to $100), which has dorm beds for $17 a night, as well as some great-value ocean-view private rooms and studios.

North Shore Oahu

• North Shore Oahu

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