Hawaii's leeward
Kona coast
divides into two distinct areas. To the north of its only sizeable community,
Kailua
, barren lava trails down to the sea from the third highest of the Big Island's volcanoes, Hualalai. Thanks to the relentless sun on its magnificent beaches, luxury hotels dot the shoreline, incongruous green patches in the wasteland. To the south, the hillsides are more fertile, and although the condos are spreading, you can still get a real feel for the old Hawaii, in the land where Captain Cook met his end.
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