Travelling east on I-90 towards Missoula, Montana, you pass the surprisingly good ski hill of Silver Mountain (tel 208/783-1111 or 1-800/204-6428) at Kellogg, some forty miles from Coeur d'Alene. It has the world's longest single-stage gondola (3.1 miles), which is open year-round for fine skiing in winter ($31), and some good mountain biking and hiking in summer ($11).

A further ten miles east on I-90 are the authentic western-style streets of friendly WALLACE , where most of the town's buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings, and evoke strong images of its silver mining days. See them on the 75-minute Sierra Silver Mine Tour which leaves from 420 N Fifth St every half-hour and is a fun trolley-car trip that takes you to the mine via the town's streets; at the mine you descend a thousand feet underground on a guided tour (summer daily 9am-4pm; $7). In town, check out the unusual Oasis Rooms Bordello Museum , 605 Cedar St (May-Oct daily 10am-5pm, Nov & Dec Wed-Sun noon-4.30pm; $5; tel 208/753-0801), a former brothel that has been left exactly as it was when raided and closed down by the FBI in 1987. For eating call in at The Jameson Hotel , 304 Sixth St (tel 208/556-1554), where you can enjoy lunch or dinner surrounded by vintage furnishing and decor.

East from Coeur d'Alene on I-90

• East from Coeur d'Alene on I-90

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