Mark Twain referred to Baton Rouge's Old State Capitol (in use from 1850 to 1932) as "that monstrosity on the Mississippi." A grey crenellated structure on a lumpy mound overlooking the river, penned in by an ugly wrought-iron fence, it looks like a cross between a castle and a cathedral, without the particular merits of either. Inside, the entertaining Center for Political and Governmental History explores Louisiana's scandal-ridden political history (Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; $4).

The splendid LSU Rural Life Museum , 4560 Essen Rd at I-10 (daily 8.30am-5pm; $5), re-creates pre-industrial Louisiana life through its carefully restored buildings - among them a plantation house, slave cottages and a grist mill - spread over 25 acres in a sultry garden setting.

One-hour harbor tours leave from the end of Florida Boulevard, passing under the Baton Rouge Bridge . This was perhaps the most ingenious of Huey Long's constructions; his stipulation that it should have a clearance of just 65 feet ensured that big boats could go no further north, thereby boosting the port trade of Baton Rouge several times over.

Riverfront

• Riverfront

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