New Orleans: Outside the Quarter

Casamento's 4330 Magazine St tel 504/895-9761. Spotless and wonderfully old-fashioned, this uptown oyster bar serves inexpensive ice-fresh oysters and seafood; the overstuffed "loaves" are especially good.

Commander's Palace 1403 Washington Ave tel 504/899-8221. Exceptional haute Creole cuisine in a Garden District mansion. The heart-thumpingly rich food is pricey (dinner entrees $25-30), but the prix fixe menus prove good value (lunch from $15). Jacket required for dinner and Sun lunch. Reservations essential.

Jacques Imo's 8324 Oak St tel 504/861-0886. Funky uptown restaurant with a colorful patio. The cooking, an inventive Creole-Cajun take on soul food, is astounding and very good value - from the fried oysters and chicken livers to the buttery blackened redfish. It's a great place to fill up before a gig at the Maple Leaf a couple of doors away, and well worth a trip any time. Reservations advised.

Juan's Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St tel 504/569-0000. Mainstay of the Lower Garden District boho scene, this Tex-Mex joint serves low-priced tacos, burritos and overstuffed quesadillas in a convivial neighborhood atmosphere.

Lola's 3312 Esplanade Ave tel 504/488-6946. Cozy little place between Tremé and Mid-City. It's a firm local favorite for cheap, mouthwatering and authentic Spanish food, with great garlic soup and a paella to die for. No reservations; expect a wait. No credit cards. BYOB.

Metro Bistro 200 Magazine St tel 504/529-1900. Buzzy, welcoming CBD bistro wth excellent French-influenced food; entrees include duck cassoulet, Burgundian beef stew with wild mushroom bread pudding, grilled fish on corn choux , and a tangy bouillabaisse. Lunch is cheaper.

Palace Café 605 Canal St tel 504/523-1661. Casually elegant restaurant in a grand old music store building on the French Quarter-CBD border. The contemporary Creole food is mouthwatering; signature dishes include creamy crabmeat cheesecake and a fabulous oyster pan roast.

Uglesich's 1238 Baronne St tel 504/523-8571. The "Yew-gle-sitch-es" draw on eastern European traditions to create the best food in the city, served in a shabby Lower Garden District seafood joint. Everything is delicious, from the oyster brie soup to the spicy "sizzling shrimp Gail." Feast on raw oysters while you wait for a table (which can be a long time). No credit cards. No reservations.

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