Beyond Little Italy, separated from the renovated Inner Harbor by acres of derelict wharves and warehouses, stands Baltimore's oldest and liveliest quarter, Fell's Point . Projecting into the main harbor, its deepwater frontage made it the heart of the city's extensive shipbuilding industry; the shipyards are long gone, but many old bars and pubs have hung on to form one of the best nightlife districts in the country. While there is little in the way of sightseeing, the Pink Flamingos junk shop owned and run by Edith Massey - inspiration for many of John Waters' offbeat films - was at 728 S Broadway, a block from the water; it's now a novelty store specializing in Divine memorabilia. The NBC cop drama Homicide also called this area home for a while, using the abandoned police station and local coffee shops as a backdrop.

Canton is also an area awakening to new businesses and restaurants, quickly rivaling Fell's Point and Federal Hill for top billing in nightly entertainment. Heading east from Fell's Point, you'll see the first wave of trendy restaurants and bookstore cafés along Boston Street, but the main concentration of bars and eateries surround the square between the two branches of O'Donnell Street.

Fell's Point and Canton

• Fell's Point and Canton

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