The adjacent communities of CAMDEN and ROCKPORT split into two separate towns in 1891, in a dispute over who should pay for a new bridge over the Goose River between them. Rockport was at that time a major lime producer, but a fire at the kilns in 1907 not only put an end to that business but also destroyed the ice-houses that were the town's other main source of income. Now it's a quiet working port, among the prettiest on the Maine coast, home to numerous lobster boats, pleasure cruisers and little else; clearly, Camden has won the competition for tourists. The one essential stop in the area is Camden Hills State Park , two miles north of Camden ($2), where you can hike or drive up to a tower that affords one of the best views of the Maine coastline; on a clear day it's possible to see as far as Acadia National Park.

Camden and Rockport specialize in organizing sailing expeditions of up to six days in the large schooners known as windjammers . Expeditions sail late May into mid-October. Vessels include the Timberwind (tel 207/236-0801 or 1-800/759-9250) for three- and six-day trips ($295-649) out of Rockport and the Appledore (tel 207/236-8353), which does two-hour cruises for $20 from Camden. Maine Sport Outfitters in Rockport (tel 1-800/722-0826, ) rents kayaks and bikes . Among busy eating and drinking spots in Camden are Rathbone's at 21 Bayview St (tel 207/236-3272), for grilled pizzas and seafood, and the nearby Waterfront (tel 207/236-3747), for gourmet sandwiches and a great harbor location. Gilbert's Publick House on Sharp's Wharf (tel 207/236-4320) has pool tables and microbrews on tap, while the Sea Dog , 43 Mechanic St (tel 207/236-6863), is the town's popular brewpub.

Camden's information office is at the Public Landing (tel 207/236-4404 or 1-800/223-5459, ). The classy place to stay is the Whitehall Inn , 400 yards north of the center at 52 High St (tel 207/236-3391 or 1-800/789-6565, ), which in summer provides great evening meals with rates ($160-200) and during the rest of the year operates on a B&B basis ($100-130). The Castleview, 59 High St (tel 1-800/272-8439, ; $100-130/$130-160), is the only B&B in town oceanside, with the attendant views as well as great breakfasts. The nearby Maine Stay , 22 High St (tel 207/236-9636; $160-200), is a cozy 1813 white-clapboard inn, and the Snow Hill Lodge , north on Hwy-1 near Lincolnville Beach (tel 207/236-3452 or 1-800/476-4775; $35-50), ranks as a good budget option.

Camden and Rockport

• Camden and Rockport

Maine cities


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