The road east of Rangeley cuts through prime moose-watching territory - locals call Hwy-16 E "Moose Alley." After about fifty miles, in the Carrabassett Valley, looms the huge mountain of the SUGARLOAF USA ski resort (tel 1-800/THE-LOAF, ). A brilliant place for skiers of all abilities, this condo-studded center would be a more popular destination if it wasn't for the fact that the nearest airport is a two-hour drive away in Portland. In summer, one of the most likely places to spot a gangling moose is behind the check-in building on the resort's approach road. Other summer activities include guided mountain bike tours with the Sugarloaf Outdoor Center (tel 207/237-6830).

Anni's Café , next to the gas station, is an inexpensive place to eat . Kingfield was the birthplace of twins Francis and Freelan Stanley, who invented, among other things, a steam-powered car and the dry plate photographic process (which they sold to Kodak). The Stanley Museum on School Street (May-Oct Tues-Sun 1-4pm; $2) celebrates their story. Part of the main room is given over to their sister, Chansonetta, a remarkable photographer whose studies of c.1900 rural and urban workers have been widely published.

Sugarloaf USA and Kingfield

• Sugarloaf USA and Kingfield

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