The southwestern edge of the heavily wooded Leelanau Peninsula is occupied by the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore , a constantly re-sculptured area of towering dunes and precipitous 400ft drops. The area was named by the Chippewa, who saw the mist-shrouded North and South Manitou islands as the graves of two drowned bear cubs, and the massive mainland dune, covered with dark trees, as their grieving mother. Fierce winds off Lake Michigan cause the dunes to edge inland, burying trees that reappear years later stripped of foliage, while the continual attack of high water undercuts the massive sand banks, occasionally sending massive chunks into the lake. Stunning overlooks can be had along the hilly, nine-mile loop of the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive , off Hwy-109. You can also clamber up the strenuous but enjoyable Dune Climb , four miles farther north on Hwy-109 (best done barefoot, as shoes soon fill with sand).

The visitor center (tel 231/326-5134, ), at the junction of highways 22 and 109, provides details on trails, campgrounds and beaches. Nearby, the village of GLEN ARBOR , dotted with some interesting galleries, is the closest community to the dunes. Decent places to eat here include Le Bear , 5707 Lake St (tel 231/334-4640), where affordable lunches and costly seafood dinners are served on a waterfront deck, and Art's Bar , 6487 Western Ave (tel 231/334-3754), a pleasant tavern delivering great hamburgers and inexpensive fried fish.

LELAND , fifteen miles north, makes an even better base. Its harbor, crammed with expensive launches, holds a quaint collection of well-weathered sheds, known as Fishtown , where the day's catch was once hauled in for gutting and smoking; most are now touristy knickknack shops. The Cove , at 111 River St (tel 231/256-9834), serves up tasty Great Lakes fish dishes and a superb key lime pie. Ferries from Leland ($22 round-trip; tel 231/256-9061) go to the uninhabited North and South Manitou islands. NORTHPORT , on the tip of the peninsula, is another relaxing fishing village, where the Beech Tree , 202 Waukazoo St (tel 231/386-5200), is an art gallery that's worth a look. Eleven miles south on the peninsula's east coast, SUTTONS BAY may not be as pretty but its main artery, St Joseph Avenue, has some of the area's best places to eat. Hatties , at no. 111 (tel 231/271-6222), serves fine meals along the lines of chicken with cherry sauce and Thai scallops. Café Bliss , at no. 420 (tel 231/271-5000), specializes in vegetarian and Native American cuisine with entrees around $12. The Hose House Deli , in a restored 1913 fire station at no. 303 (tel 231/271-6303), serves large good-value sandwiches and coffee.

Nowhere on the peninsula is accommodation inexpensive. The best option is the Leelanau Country Inn , midway between Glen Arbor and Leland at 149 East Harbor Hwy, Maple City (tel 231/228-5060, ; $50-75), a good-value Victorian B&B serving large breakfasts.

Leelanau Peninsula

• Leelanau Peninsula

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