Viewed from an approaching boat, the tree-blanketed rocky limestone outcrop of MACKINAC ISLAND (pronounced "Mackinaw"), suddenly thrusting out from the swirling waters, is an unforgettable sight. As you near the harbor, large Victorian houses come into view, dappling the hillsides with white and pastel. The most conspicuous is the imposing $250-plus-a-night Grand Hotel (tel 906/847-3331, ; $250+), where just to enter the foyer costs $5. On disembarking, you'll see rows of horses and buggies (all motorized transportation is banned from the island, except for emergency vehicles) and inhale the omnipresent smell of fresh manure. Also ubiquitous on the island is fudge , relentlessly marketed as a Mackinac "delicacy."

Mackinac's crowded Main Street and the contrived nostalgia can get irritating, but the island is still worth visiting, not least for the ferry ride over and the chance to cycle along the hilly back roads. Underneath the tourist trimmings is a rich history. French priests established a mission to the Huron Indians here during the winter of 1670-71. The French built a fort in 1715 but within fifty years had lost control of the island to the British. Since independence Mackinac has been a base for John Jacob Astor's American Fur Company, a fishing port, and a jail for Confederate officers during the Civil War. The government acknowledged its beauty by designating it as the country's second national park, two years after Yellowstone in 1875, though management was handed over to the state of Michigan twenty years later. To get a feel for the history, hike or cycle up to the whitewashed stone Fort Mackinac , a US Army outpost until 1890. Its ramparts afford a great view of the village and lake below, though admission is a steep $8 (May to mid-Oct 9.30am-6.30pm).

Mackinac Island

• Mackinac Island
• Practicalities

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