Minneapolis and St Paul: St Paul bars and clubs

The Dakota Bar and Grill 1021 Bandana Blvd tel 651/642-1442, . Gourmet Midwestern food and great local and national jazz in converted shopping mall locale.

Gallivan's 354 Wabasha St tel 651/227-6688. This downtown white-collar pub, one of St Paul's oldest bars, has a neighborhood feel.

McGovern's 225 W 7th St tel 651/224-5821. At a quintessential Irish pub, you're likely to strike up some decent conversation.

O'Gara's Bar and Grill 164 N Snelling Ave tel 651/644-3333. The mixed clientele is drawn by grub, grog and live bands in the adjoining Garage .

Tom Reid's Hockey City Pub 258 W 7th St tel 651/292-9916. At a pre- and post-game hangout, Minnesotans gather to honor their favorite sport.

Town House 1415 University Ave tel 651/646-7087. Gay/lesbian bar with dance, drag and C&W evenings, plus piano lounge.

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