The sheer splendor of the remote 28-mile-long Flathead Lake provides a welcome diversion on the long route north towards Glacier National Park, reached by following US-93 north from I-90 to the Flathead Indian Reservation. Before reaching the lake, stop off and view the bison herds at the National Bison Range (mid-May to late Oct daily 8am-8pm; late Oct to mid-May 8am-4.30pm; $5 entrance fee; tel 406/644-2211). The main entrance is at the small town of Moiese, 20 miles west of St Ignatius off Hwy-212.

Between Polson in the south and Somers in the north, US-93 follows the Flathead Lake's western shore, while the smaller Hwy-36 runs up the east, scrunched beneath the Mission Mountains. Both offer superb views of the deep alpine waters; US-93's curve around Elmo in the west, where conical Wild Horse Island rises starkly from the crystal-blue depths, is especially memorable.

Flathead Lake is a major destination for water-sports enthusiasts, with the prime spot for launching fishing and pleasure boats being Bigfork in the northeast. If you feel more comfortable on an organized cruise, summer options include the Far West (tel 406/857-3203) from Somers, and the Port Polson Princess ($10-16; tel 406/883-2448) from Best Western KwaTaqNuk Resort at Polson.

General information on the Flathead Valley can be found on 1-800/543-3105. POLSON has the most extensive range of facilities. Here, the Flathead tribe owns the Best Western KwaTaqNuk Resort , which has a pool and its own marina with boat rentals, at 303 US-93 E (tel 406/883-3636 or 1-800/882-6363; $75-100/$100-130); the Port Polson Inn , also overlooking the lake from US-93 E (tel 406/883-5385 or 1-800/654-0682; $50-75/$75-100), is slightly less expensive. If you're passing through, it's worth pausing at Watusi , 318 Main St (tel 406/883-6200), for its delicious, healthy lunches.

Flathead Valley

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