Rarely visited and almost entirely wilderness, the semi-arid, forested, volcanic Mogollon and Mimbres mountains soar above the high desert plain of southwest New Mexico to over ten thousand feet. But for a number of copper mines, the area is protected within the Gila National Forest . The mountains are some of the most remote in the US, little altered since Apache warrior Geronimo was born here at the headwaters of the Gila River.

Halfway up the mountains, the biggest settlement, SILVER CITY , lies 45 miles north of I-10 at the junction of US-180 from Deming and Hwy-90 from Lordsburg. The Spanish came here in 1804, sold the Mimbreño Indians into slavery, and opened the Santa Rita copper mine , just east of town below the Kneeling Nun monolith; but the town was re-established in 1870 as a rough-and-tumble silver camp - Billy the Kid spent most of his childhood here. A fine selection of ornate old buildings is scattered along elm-lined avenues and across the surrounding hills. The excellent Silver City Museum at 312 W Broadway (Tues-Fri 9am-4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; free) tells the boom-and-bust tales, and holds fine specimens of Casas Grandes pottery , beautiful Navajo rugs, and basketry from all the major Southwest tribes. Three blocks east, the original Main Street was washed away in a great flood and has become the cottonwood-shaded Big Gulch Park .

In downtown Silver City, the Carter House , 101 N Cooper St (tel 505/388-5485; up to $75), is a HI-AYH youth hostel that doubles as a B&B , with $13 dorm beds ($16 nonmembers) and five en-suite private rooms; be sure to call in advance, however, as the house was up for sale at the time of writing. Just outside town, Bear Mountain Guest Ranch (tel 505/538-2538 or 1-877/620-BEAR, ; $75-100) is a large 1920s ranch, now run as a B&B by the Nature Conservancy, that makes a great base for bird-watching, cycling, mountain biking or cross-country skiing. Bullard Street in the heart of town holds atmospheric saloons and cafés like the Silver Café at 514 N Bullard (tel 505/388-3480).

Silver City

• Silver City

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