Long Island's South Shore merges gently with the wild Atlantic, with shallow, creamy sand beaches and rolling dunes like those at Long Beach and Jones Beach , which together run along fifty miles of seashore. These get less crowded the further east you go; once you get as far as Gilgo or Oak Beach , or cross the water to Robert Moses State Park on the western tip of Fire Island, you can find solitude. Long Beach has a die-hard surfer contingent that gathers at the Long Beach Surf Shop , 651 E Park Ave (tel 631/897-7873); you can purchase a used board here for about $250. Ocean Parkway leads along the narrow offshore strand from Jones Beach to Captree , a good base for fishing and whale-watching trips organized by the Captree Boatman's Association (tel 631/669-6484, ) before crossing back to Bay Shore , a dull town that serves as a ferry terminal for Fire Island. This way you bypass the sprawling mess of Amityville , famous for its "horror" of twenty years ago. The house on the hill, from which a mysterious supernatural force is said to have driven the occupants, still stands.

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