The winter sports center of LAKE PLACID , twice the proud host of the Winter Olympics, lies thirty miles west of I-87 on Hwy-73. In winter there's thrilling alpine skiing at imposing Whiteface Mountain and all manner of Nordic disciplines at Mount Van Hoevenberg, and in summer you can watch luge athletes practice on refrigerated runs, freestyle skiers somersaulting off dry slopes into swimming pools, and top amateur ice hockey games; ask at the information center in the Olympic Center at 216 Main St (tel 518/523-2445 or 1-800/44-PLACID, ). The mountain slopes also provide challenging terrain for hikers and cyclists; good mountain bikes , maps of local trails and guided tours are available from High Peaks Cyclery, 331 Main St (tel 518/523-3764). In summer, the self-guided Olympic Site Tour package (tel 518/523-1655; $17) takes you by chair lift to the top of the 393ft ski jump and eight miles up the sheer Whiteface Mountain toll road and back again. At Mount Van Hoevenberg , you can do a bobsled run ($30) or bike the extensive trail network ($18 bike rental; $5 trail fee; for information on both, call Olympic Sports Center on 518/523-4436).

The town itself is set on two lakes: Mirror Lake , which you can sail on in summer and skate on in winter, and larger Lake Placid , just to the west, on which you can take a narrated cruise in summer ($7.25; tel 518/523-9704). Other attractions include the Olympic Center on Main St (tel 518/523-3330), which houses four ice rinks and the informative 1932 and 1980 Lake Placid Winter Olympic Museum ($4). John Brown's Farm and Grave , on Hwy-73 outside the village, was where the famous abolitionist brought his family in 1849 to aid a small colony of black farmers and where he conceived his ill-fated raid on Harper's Ferry in an attempt to end slavery. The house is less interesting than his story, but at least it's free (late May to late Oct Wed-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; tel 518/523-3900).

Lake Placid's accommodation options range from the somewhat economical to the opulent. The casually elegant Mirror Lake Inn , 5 Mirror Lake Drive (tel 518/523-2544; $100-250+), has over 120 rooms, the best of them palatial, but is as cozy as a small B&B. Facilities include pool, sauna, health club, private beach/skating rink and a top-notch restaurant. Edelweiss Motel , 14 Hwy-86 on the east side of town, has rooms which are clean, if a little retro (tel 518/523-3821; $50-75). The Keene Valley Hostel in nearby Keene Valley (tel 518/576-2030; up to $35) is a great base if you want to be within walking distance of all the best hiking trails.

Lake Placid is virtually a fast-food-free zone and it's possible to eat well for comparatively little. Leslie's is a much-loved local bakery at 99 Main St (tel 518/523-4279), while Nicola's Over Main , 2 Marcy Road (tel 518/523-4430), does Greek and Italian dinners, including good wood-fired pizza. Goldberries at 187 Main St (tel 518/523-1799) offers standard fare but has good views of the lake. The waterfront Cottage Café , 5 Mirror Lake Drive (tel 518/523-9845), is a café/pub serving snacks and unusual specials such as chilled strawberry soup. It's also the town's top après-ski spot, while the central Hilton is the main place for live music .

Lake Placid

• Lake Placid

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