New York City: Food and drink

Food - the buying as much as the consuming of it - is a New York obsession. Though you can find a deli on pretty much any corner, it's in the gourmet markets and specialty shops - cheese, bread, smoked fish, what have you - that the city really shines.

GOURMET MARKETS

Around the Clock Center, Chelsea Market 75 9th Ave (between 15th and 16th sts) tel 212/243-6005.
A complex of eighteen former industrial buildings, among them the late nineteenth-century Nabisco Cookie Factory.

Balducci's 424 6th Ave (between 9th and 10th sts) tel 212/673-2600.
The longtime rival of the Upper West Side's Zabar's, this is a family-run store that's no less appetizing - though some say it's slightly pricier.

Dean and Deluca 560 Broadway (between Prince and Spring sts) tel 212/226-6800.
One of the original big neighborhood food emporia. Very chic, very SoHo and not at all cheap. There's also a café on Prince St.

Fairway 2127 Broadway (between 74th and 75th sts) tel 212/595-1888.
Long-established Upper West Side grocery store that for many locals is the better-value alternative to Zabar's. They have their own farm on Long Island, so the produce is always fresh, and their range in some items is enormous. Fantastic organic selection upstairs.

Russ & Daughters 179 E Houston St (between Allen and Orchard sts) tel 212/475-4880.
Technically, this store is known as an "appetizing" - the original Manhattan gourmet shop, set up about 1900 to sate the appetites of homesick immigrant Jews, selling smoked fish, caviar, pickled vegetables, cheese and bagels. This is one of the oldest.

Zabar's 2245 Broadway (between 80th and 81st sts) tel 212/787-2000.
The apotheosis of New York food-fever, Zabar's is still the city's most eminent foodstore. Choose from an astonishing variety of cheeses, cooked meats and salads, fresh baked bread and croissants, excellent bagels, and cooked dishes to go. Not to be missed.

CHEESE AND DAIRY

Alleva Latticini 188 Grand St (at Mulberry St) tel 212/226-7990.
Oldest Italian cheesery in America; also a grocer. Makes own smoked mozzarella and ricotta.

Joe's Dairy 156 Sullivan St (between Houston and Prince sts) tel 212/677-8780.
Family store considered New York's best bet for fresh mozzarella in several varieties.

Murray's Cheese Shop 257 Bleecker St (between 6th and 7th aves) tel 212/243-3289.
A variety of more than 300 fresh cheeses and excellent fresh panini sandwiches, all served by knowledgeable staff. Free tastings on Sat afternoons.

FISH AND SEAFOOD

Barney Greengrass 541 Amsterdam Ave (between 86th and 87th sts) tel 212/724-4707.
"The Sturgeon King" - an Upper West Side smoked-fish brunch institution since 1908 that also sells brunch-makings to go.

Citarella 2135 Broadway (at 75th St) tel 212/874-0383.
The largest and most varied fish and seafood source in the city, now with gourmet baked goods, cheese, coffee, meat, and prepared food.

Petrossian 182 W 58th St (at 7th Ave) tel 212/245-2214.
This celebrated shop imports only the finest Russian caviar, alongside a range of other gourmet products - smoked salmon and other fish mainly - as well as pricey implements to eat it all with.

HEALTH FOOD, VEGETARIAN AND SPICE SHOPS

Aphrodisia 264 Bleecker St (between 6th and 7th aves) tel 212/989-6440.
For herbs, spices and seasoning oils only, this place is hard to beat.

Healthy Pleasures 93 University Place (between 11th and 12th sts) tel 212/353-3663; 489 Broome St (between West Broadway and Wooster St) tel 212/431-7434; and 2493 Broadway (between 92nd and 93rd sts).
These giant stores have juice bars, incredible salad-bar selections and all manner of healthy delights. The bottom floor of the Broadway branch is entirely kosher.

Kalustyan's 123 Lexington Ave (between 28th and 29th sts) tel 212/685-3451.
The best of the groceries in the tiny Little India district of Manhattan. Good spice selection.

TEA AND COFFEE

Empire Coffee and Tea Co 568 9th Ave (between 41st and 42nd sts) tel 212/268-1220.
This store for the serious addict has been fueling New York's caffeine habits since 1908.

Porto Rico Importing Company 201 Bleecker St (between 6th Ave and MacDougal St) tel 212/477-5421; 40 1/2 St Mark's Place (off 2nd Ave); and 107 Thompson St (between Prince and Spring sts).
Best for coffee, and local rumor has it that the house blends are as good as many of the more expensive coffees. The Thompson St branch has a smaller selection and is primarily a café.

LIQUOR STORES

Prices for all kinds of liquor are controlled in New York State and vary little from one shop to another. We've listed a few that have an especially good selection or tend to be a touch less expensive. A state law forbids the sale of hard liquor and wine on Sundays; supermarkets may sell beer, but not wine or spirits.

Astor Wines and Spirits 12 Astor Place (at Lafayette St) tel 212/674-7500.
Manhattan's best selection and some of the city's most competitive prices. Good kosher and organic wine section.

Chelsea Wine Vault 75 9th Ave (in Chelsea Market) tel 212/462-4244.
These incredibly knowledgeable folk will sell, store and even teach you about wine.

Warehouse Wines and Spirits 735 Broadway (between 8th and Waverly Place) tel 212/982-7770.
The top place to get a buzz for your buck, with a wide selection and frequent reductions on popular lines.

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