At the mouth of the Coquille River, twenty miles south of industrial Coos Bay, easygoing BANDON combines old-town restoration with a strong New Age, arts-and-crafts presence. It was originally a Native American settlement, swamped by the onset of the Gold Rush. The twentieth century began rather ominously, when townsfolk dynamited Tupper Rock, a sacred tribal site, to build the sea wall, and the town was cursed to burn down three times: it's happened twice so far, in 1914 and 1936, and the superstitious are still waiting for the final conflagration.

Bandon's main attraction today is its rugged beach , strewn with unusual rock formations and magnificent in stormy weather, when giant tree stumps are tossed up out of the ocean like matchsticks. In calmer conditions, clammers head off to the river's mudflats, crabbers gather at the town dock, and the whole scene makes for a delightful stroll. The visitor center is centrally located at 300 SE Second St (tel 541/347-9616, ), and there's oceanfront accommodation just south of town at the outstanding Sunset Motel , 1755 Beach Loop Drive (tel 541/347-2453 or 1-800/842-2407, ; $50-200), which comprises motel rooms, condos and, best of all, seafront cabins. In town, the place to stay is the Sea Star Guest House , 375 Second St (tel 541/347-9632, ; $50-75), part of which is given over to the HI-Sea Star Hostel (dorm beds $18). West of town, there's great seafood at Bandon Boatworks , at the end of Jetty Road (tel 541/347-2111), and at various eateries along First and Second streets in the center of town. You can camp just north of town at Bullards Beach State Park (tel 541/347-2209), where the disused Coquille River Lighthouse casts a romantic silhouette over miles of windswept sands.

Bandon

• Bandon

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