The Wallowa Mountains , reached by leaving I-84 at La Grande and heading east on Hwy-82, are one of eastern Oregon's loveliest and least-discovered areas. At the northern tip of the glacially-carved Wallowa Lake , the tiny town of JOSEPH is a perfect spot to spend the night. Motels such as the Indian Lodge Motel , 201 S Main St (tel 541/432-2651, ; $50-75), are inexpensive, and the friendly Chandlers' Bed, Bread and Trail Inn , 700 S Main St (tel 541/432-9765; $75-100), offers five rooms, a garden, and solid breakfasts. Also on Main Street are many antique and craft stores and the small Wallowa County Museum , 110 S Main St (summer daily 10am-5pm; donation; ), where the story of the Nez Percé is presented along with a limited collection of pioneer artifacts.

A mile or so south of Joseph, Wallowa Lake is inhabited by the Native American legend of the Wallowa Lake Monster, a great horned beast known to some as "Wally." At its far end, the state park has camping ($18; ), and the Mount Howard Tramway whisks visitors to the top of the mountain, where short trails lead to magnificent overlooks (June-Aug daily 10am-4pm; weekends only in May & Sept; $16 round-trip; ). Much of the mountain scenery behind Joseph makes up the Eagle Cap Wilderness , whose lakes, streams and peaks are accessible only via hiking trails. Backcountry camping and hiking around here is strikingly remote - contact the Wallowa Mountains Visitor Center , 88401 Hwy-82 (tel 541/426-5546), for details of the Eagle Cap and Hells Canyon, or look on for more information.

Joseph

• Joseph

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