South of Charleston toward Savannah, the coastline dissolves into small, marshy islands. Edisto Island , south of US-17 on Hwy-174, is typical: huge live oaks festooned with great drapes of Spanish moss line the roads, beside bright green marshes with rich birdlife, and great beaches on the seaward side. If you want to stay, there are no budget motels, but the campground at Edisto Beach State Park (tel 843/869-2156, fax 843/869-3022) is near a great beach lined with palmetto trees and other semitropical plants. Electrical and water hook-up costs $23, walk-ins $12.

BEAUFORT (pronounced Byoofert ), the biggest town, is rather twee but the old district is lovely - offset somewhat by racial tensions and the baleful proximity of Parris Island US Marine Base, notorious for the brutality of its training regime, as mythologized in Kubrick's Vietnam film Full Metal Jacket . The Greyhound bus station is two miles north of town on US-21. The visitor center at 1106 Carteret St (tel 843/986-5406) has details of tours around the small historic district and discount coupons for the motels out on US-21. In town, the Best Western Sea Island Inn , 1015 Bay St (tel 843/522-2090, fax 843/521-4858, ; $100-130/$130-160), has nice rooms with an old-fashioned feel. Ultimate Eating , 859 Sea Island Parkway (tel 843/838-1314), serves nourishing Low Country and gullah -style dishes. For magnificent views of Beaufort River visit Ollie's Seafood Restaurant where the oysters are a specialty.

Sea islands

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• St Helena Island

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