The usual way to approach the Smokies from the west is on the billboard-lined US-441 that sweeps past the small market center of
SEVIERVILLE
, whose well-preserved center is tucked just off the highway and evokes days gone by with its wooden-floored general stores and small cafés serving mountains of Southern food to hungry farmers. A statue of
Dolly Parton
stands on the lawn outside the courthouse. Sevierville merges almost seamlessly into the six-mile strip of motels, fast-food places, factory discount outlets, themed family attractions and souvenir shops at the dry town of
PIGEON FORGE
. This is the spot to race go-carts in places like the Rebel yell Speedway, visit an Elvis museum and absorb regional entertainment at numerous barn-sized haunts including
Elwood Smooch's Hillbilly Hoedown
. Five miles further along US-441, a heavy layer of kitsch all but submerges the genuine Germanic heritage of the more upmarket "wet" tourist town of
GATLINBURG
. The long, narrow main street is packed to the point of claustrophobia with gimmicky souvenir shops, wax museums, and stalls selling sickly sweet taffy. An alternative, if you're approaching from the east, is to drive along the pretty Foothills Parkway through woods and across misty mountains, and turn east for seven miles or so to
TOWNSEND
, a peaceful strip where the motels are laid-back and the air is clear.
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