Toward the Great Smoky Mountains: Practicalities

Sevierville (tel 1-800/255-6411), Gatlinburg (tel 1-800/568-4748) and Pigeon Forge (tel 1-800/251-9100) all have visitor centers on the main drag. Accommodation prices in the foothill towns fluctuate seasonally, from $20 up to $80 and also vary radically between weekdays and weekends.

As the furthest of the towns from the Smoky Mountains National Park, Sevierville has the best-value motels , and most of the major mid-price chains are represented. The Calico Inn , 757 Ranch Way (tel 865/428-3833 or 1-800/235-1054; $100-130), is an award-winning B&B with great breakfasts. The town center offers several good spots for lunch including Virgil's , 109 Bruce St (tel 865/453-2782), a 1950s diner serving up big plates of burgers and home cooking.

Pigeon Forge has literally dozens of motels, such as the Parkview , 2806 Parkway (mid-March to Dec; tel 865/453-5051 or 1-800/239-9116; $50-75), and the comfortable, friendly Shular Inn , 2708 Parkway (tel 865/453-2700 or 1-800/451-2376, fax 865/429-3069; $50-75). If you prefer neon lights to wilderness trails and own a trailer you can camp at Z Buda's Smokies Campground , 705 S Parkway (April-Oct; tel 865/453-4129), where tentsites start from $12. A good breakfast place is the Smoky Mountain Pancake House at 4160 Parkway (tel 865/453-1947).

Gatlinburg offers the quickest access to the park and so tends to be the most expensive place to stay, but Bales , 221 Bishop Lane (tel 865/436-4773 or 1-800/458-8249, fax 865/436-7341, ; $50-75), and Bon Air Mountain Inn , 950 Parkway (tel 865/436-4857, ; $75-100), are competitively priced. There's also an unaffiliated youth hostel , Wa-Floy Mountain Retreat at 3610 E Parkway (tel 865/436-7700; $15). Gatlinburg is, however, the best choice for food : Linebergers , 903 Parkway (tel 865/436-9284), at traffic light #8, is strong on seafood while Calhoun's , 1004 Parkway (tel 865/436-4100), is a local chain renowned for decent barbecue.

In Townsend motels are strung along Hwy-321: try the peaceful Highland Manor , 7766 E Lamar Alexander Parkway (tel 865/448-2211, fax 865/448-2312, ; $35-50/$75-100), a friendly place with great views. Perhaps the best option in the entire area is the rustic cabins and lodges at the Wonderland Lodge , 3889 Wonderland Way (tel 865/428-0779, fax 865/774-5011; $50-75/$75-100), between Pigeon Forge and Townsend, where the idyll is maintained in the telephone-free rooms. The Hearth and Kettle , 7767 E Lamar Alexander Parkway (tel 865/448-6059), opposite the Highland Manor motel, dishes up fresh trout and crispy fried chicken in a country store atmosphere.

Toward the Great Smoky Mountains

Toward the Great Smoky Mountains
• Practicalities

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