Since the oil crisis in the early 1980s, the frenzy of skyscraper-building has slowed down, but Houston's skyline remains an unforgettable monument to an earlier age of certainty. Observation floors at the Chase Tower , 600 Travis St, and the Texaco Plaza offer views of the endless plateau over which the city sprawls. Just to the north, the area now covered by the reflecting pool in front of City Hall was granted to the city by a characterful rancher on the condition that no one could ever be arrested there for public intoxication, so it attracts a somewhat varied crowd.

Most people escape the Houston heat by staying underground, in the nearly seven miles of air-conditioned tunnels entered from the Hyatt Regency and the Main Street banks. However, they're a confusing and visually unappealing way to get around, despite the city's pride in their shops and restaurants. One consequence of this bustling subterranean world is a surreal, dreamlike isolation above ground, as few pedestrians emerge into the sunlight long enough to enjoy the various modern sculptures installed along the sidewalks (such as the Mirós outside the Chase Tower).

Nestling below the skyscrapers, Sam Houston Park on Bagby Street (Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1-5pm; $6) contains restored structures such as a church and shop, while Market Square features some of the original buildings at the heart of the early city.

Even if you don't make it to a performance in the Theater District , west of Milam Street between Preston and Rusk streets, visit the Wortham Theater Center , 500 Texas St (tel 713/237-1439), which houses the city's opera and ballet. The beautifully sculpted interior, perfect acoustics and secluded private bars take the breath away, as does the knowledge that the whole set-up cost $70 million.

Baseball fans won't want to miss Enron Field , home of the Houston Astros ( ). The park, which opened in 2000, features a retractable roof that can withstand hurricane conditions and close in twelve minutes. Tours of the field are available (during the season Mon-Fri 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm; no 4pm tour on Sat or game days; off-season Mon-Sat 10am, noon, 2pm; $7; tel 713/259-8687).

Downtown

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