ABILENE has a certain curiosity value as an oppressively God-fearing Bible city and home to three Christian universities. There's not much reason to stop here, though a downtown stroll reveals a few places along Cypress Street worth a look. At no. 102 the Grace Museum (Tues-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-5pm, Thurs 10am-8.30pm; $3, free after 5.30pm Thurs; tel 915/673-4587, ) occupies what was once the grandest hotel in this former railroad town and is divided into three distinct sections: regional art, local history and a children's museum. The Center for Contemporary Arts at no. 220 (Tues-Sat 11am-5pm; tel 915-677-8389, ) exhibits work by local artists and is free, while the beautiful Paramount Theatre at no. 352 (tel 915/676-9620, ) is open for self-guided tours of its elaborate Moorish interior on weekdays between 1pm and 5pm. Evening shows range from theater productions to classic and art films. If you have to stay, there are plenty of interstate motels , including the well-kept Executive Inn , 1650 I-20 E (tel 915/677-2200; $35-50), while downtown, BJ's , 508 Mulberry St, offers homey, comfortable B&B rooms (tel 915/675-5855; $75-100). Cypress Street is the place to go for food with the Cypress Street Station at no. 158 (tel 915/676-3463) offering a more eclectic menu than you would expect from a restaurant in this locale.

Dozy SWEETWATER , further west on I-20, began as a general store for buffalo hunters in 1877, and since 1958 has been mildly notable for its rattlesnake roundup ( ) on the second full weekend of March, when you can try fried snake (tough but tasty) or buy a transparent toilet seat with a rattler coiled in it. As well as the serious business of the farmers ridding their land of the diamondbacks, there are parades, cook-outs, a Miss Snake Charmer Queen contest and snake-handling demonstrations. Of the motels along Georgia Street, one of the nicest is the Ranch House Motel and Restaurant (tel 915/236-6341; $35-50).

Abilene and Sweetwater

• Abilene and Sweetwater

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