Once out of Shenandoah National Park, Skyline Drive becomes the Blue Ridge Parkway , which winds southwest along the crest of the Appalachians at an average elevation of three thousand feet. It's a beautiful drive, though I-81 , sweeping along the flank of the mountains, is a more efficient way of getting from Virginia to North Carolina and on to the Great Smokies. In summer the Rocky Knob Cabins (tel 540/593-3503; $50-75), at milepost 174 on the Parkway itself, offers a memorable night's stay in the idyllic Meadows of Dan. Not far beyond milepost 214, the rambling old HI-Blue Ridge Country   hostel (tel 540/236-4962; up to $35) has dorm beds for $15.65 ($18.65 for nonmembers). Of the nearby towns, ROANOKE , sandwiched between I-81 and the Parkway, is the largest community in western Virginia. Beyond its drab modern approaches, the leisurely, old-fashioned streets make for a pleasant stopoff, particularly to visit the still-functioning farmers' market (Mon-Sat) and the modern Center In The Square mall. The mall contains several museums, including the engaging Roanoke Valley History Museum (Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $2), which documents settlement of the region by the Scottish, Welsh and Germans, and the Virginia Museum of Transportation , 303 Norfolk Ave (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; $6), which is home to the largest collection of steam locomotives in America, and hints at Roanoke's railroad foundations.

An excellent, helpful visitor center at 114 Market St (daily 9am-5pm; tel 540/345-8622 or 1-800/635-5535, ) can provide information and walking tour maps. The Jefferson Lodge at 616 S Jefferson St (tel 540/342-2951; $35-50) is basic but very centrally located, while the least expensive of the interstate motels is the Rodeway Inn , 526 Orange Ave NE, at exit 4E off I-581 (tel 540/981-9341 or 1-800/228-2000; $50-75). Campbell Avenue downtown sports a number of appealing restaurants , including Awful Arthur's Seafood Co , 108 Campbell Ave (tel 540/344-2997), a good lunch or dinner spot with interesting specials. Carlos , at 312 Market St (tel 540/345-7661), serves superb "international cuisine," predominantly Brazilian, while the Tavern on the Market at 32 Market Square (tel 540/343-2957) serves up typical pub fare and a range of beers.

History buffs surfeited on the Civil War might want to call into the town of BEDFORD , about 20 miles east of Roanoke and not far from the Parkway. An unprepossessing place in itself, this small community of 3200 lost twenty-one men (out of thirty-five) at Omaha Beach during the Allied invasion of Normandy on June 6, 1944, the highest per capita loss of anywhere in the USA. For that reason, Bedford was chosen as the site for the massive National D-Day Memorial ($10 per car annual fee), which opened on the anniversary of the event in 2001. Situated on a beautifully landscaped hilltop, the various monuments, statues and structures culminate in the 44ft arch of Victory Plaza. It is signposted just off US-460, on the south side of town.

Blue Ridge Parkway

• Blue Ridge Parkway

Virginia cities


All U.S. city guides