With sheer cliffs and craggy outcrops, rocky beaches and prairie countryside, Whidbey Island is a favorite retreat for Puget Sound's city-dwellers. In its north is a naval base, but in the southern and central parts, narrow country roads wind through farmland and small villages.

Although it's possible to reach the island by road - Hwy-20 off I-5 drops into the north end of Whidbey, some 85 miles north of Seattle - the ferry is often a better option. The quickest route from Seattle is to head thirty miles north to Mukilteo and catch the ferry to Whidbey's southern tip (every half-hour; $2.50 per person round-trip; $4.50 one-way for driver and vehicle, or $6 during peak season). From Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula an hourly ferry goes to Keystone , in the middle of the island just south of the town of Coupeville (one-way $2 per person; $6.50 with a car, $8.50 peak season; ). Whidbey's bus system, Island Transit (tel 360/321-6688, ), runs the length of the island for free.

The Mukilteo ferry lands at the small town of Clinton, but LANGLEY , further around the east coast, makes a better place to linger, with its old-West main street of wooden storefronts set on a picturesque bluff overlooking the water. The visitors center is at 208 Anthes St (daily 9am-5pm; tel 360/221-6765, ). Among the limited food options, the Café Langley , 113 Main St (tel 360/221-3090), is a decent restaurant with unsurprising fare.

The middle part of the island contains the Ebey's Landing National Historic Reserve ( ), which some may find worthwhile for its preserved World War II-era military garrisons Fort Ebey and Fort Casey . More appealing, though, is charming little COUPEVILLE , with its Victorian sea captains' mansions - and is certainly preferable to OAK HARBOR , Whidbey's largest town and the site of a naval air station and a slew of motels. To the north, at Deception Pass State Park , a steel bridge arches gracefully over the narrow gorge between Whidbey and Fidalgo Island, connecting point for the San Juans beyond.

On the edge of Coupeville, you'll find accommodations at the appealing Captain Whidbey Inn , 2072 W Captain Whidbey Inn Rd, two miles west of Coupeville on Penn Cove (tel 360/678-4097, ; $130-160), a lovely nautical-themed hotel serving superb food. The Anchorage Inn , 807 N Main St (tel 360/678-5581, ; $75-100), however, is in a more central location. The local Chamber of Commerce , 302 N Main St (tel 360/678-5434, ), has lists of B&Bs , or visit the Whidbey Island Bed & Breakfast Association website at. You can also camp in any of four state parks, including Fort Ebey State Park ($14; tel 360/678-4636).

Whidbey Island

• Whidbey Island

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