If you're traveling by Greyhound east of the Cascade Mountains along I-90, your first major stop will be ELLENSBURG , a dusty little town with fetching nineteenth-century red-brick architecture, a state police training academy, a region al university, and not much else except for the Ellensburg Rodeo , held over Labor Day weekend. Featuring Stetson-wearing cowhands roping steers, riding bulls, and braving bucking broncos, the rodeo is a rather big deal for the area. To get tickets (starting at $10), call the Rodeo Ticket Office (tel 509/962-7831 or 1-800/637-2444, ).

Greyhound stops at Okanogan St and Eighth Avenue. The visitors center , 801 S Ruby St (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 10am-2pm; tel 509/925-3137, ), provides maps and hotel options; a safe choice is Ellensburg Inn , 1700 Canyon Rd (tel 509/925-9801; $75-100). The art-deco Valley Café , 103 W Third Ave (tel 509/925-3050), is the nicest place in town to eat.

Ellensburg

• Ellensburg

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