The drive west from Cody to Yellowstone is a superb preparation for the splendors of the park itself, skirting the artificial lake created by the Buffalo Bill Dam before running alongside the Shoshone River through the open, high Wapiti Valley , the heart of Wyoming's "beef country," and finally climbing through the rugged mountains to Sylvan Pass. Lodges and campgrounds appear at intervals without spoiling the magnificence of the landscape. The Elephant Head Lodge , along US-14/16/20 (tel 307/587-3980; $75-100), is one such option, should you need a place to stay.

Wapiti Valley

• Wapiti Valley

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